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Post by garydavis on Jun 13, 2010 20:56:57 GMT -8
This is really looking Great..Buck. Outstanding craftmanship. This (to me) is the best a 49 Merc has ever looked!! LOL... Of course..it's a RACE CAR....wouldn't 'cha know it..LOL
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Post by zbuckster on Jun 15, 2010 7:36:34 GMT -8
Thanks Gary. I don't really have an update this week. Been busy with life stuff. I will agree with ya about the Merc. I know these cars are very popular with car guys but they never really pushed my button. I feel the same about Fat Fendered Ford trucks and people love them. I am doing the body work now and hope to have it in paint by the end of the week. I will update soon.
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Post by brizio on Jun 15, 2010 20:43:18 GMT -8
Looking forward to see the body done! It will be great for sure!
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Post by dogfish7 on Jun 19, 2010 10:36:31 GMT -8
That's probably one of the finest wireing and plumbing jobs ever seen!! This should make Scale Auto!
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Post by zbuckster on Jun 20, 2010 10:30:58 GMT -8
Hey everyone. I want to start by saying Happy Father's Day to all the Dads out there. Thanks for the comments guys I always enjoy the input. Making SAE would be cool, if it happens it happens. Since the last update I have got the body mounted and the ride height set. The carbs set back under the cowl a little so I built a firewall-box-rest. The firewall makes the thing look better, the box makes it look like a drag car and the whole thing rests on the top of the dashboard. The ride height is the same as the mock up. I used 3 business cards under the front spoiler to make sure it wasn't drag gin'. The rough unfinished support looks like this. Then when that was done, I made the templates for all the windows. After all that and a little sanding it was time for paint. That's when it all went sideways. I wanted to use HOCK Candy Root Beer Brown with a Gold under base. So out comes the airbrush and away we go. I put this paint On this primer And got this reaction I am not going to say I don't understand because I do. I had a case of this primer left over when I sold my shop. I have used it under all kinds of poof can paint and never had a problem. SO I just went right at it without a test first. So now I have 2 questions for anyone using HOK paint. What kind of primer do you use? Number 2 is for anyone familiar with Resin. Can I put this into CSC to strip it? I don't want to damage the body. If I have to sand it off I will, but man what a drag that would be. This is my first time using HOK Paint and my first Resin body build so any help would be great. I am going to keep going on the chassis with the roll cage etc. But the body is on hold until I can fix this. Thanks for looking in. An questions or comments are welcome. See ya in about a week. I'm coming to the Billet Proof in Centrailia so maybe I will see and meet some of you there.
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Post by brizio on Jun 20, 2010 15:54:42 GMT -8
Sorry to see what happened... I can't help you with the explanation, because I don't use HOK paint...
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Post by Fletch on Jun 20, 2010 18:24:47 GMT -8
Buck, my best guess is the problem is a mismatch between the primer and the acrylic lacquer reducer that the HoK paint is mixed with. I use HoK paints all the time and have never had a problem but I use either Dupli-color or HoK primer. I also use Hok paint straight from the manufacture not repackaged by a second party. I don't know anything about TCPGlobal. In all my time Googling HoK I have never seen them until the past month or so. The advantage we have here in Portland is there are 2 paint stores that are jobbers for HoK so there is no need to mail order HoK paint.
I would be very cautious of attempting to strip a resin body in Castrol Super-Clean. CSC, and resin do not play well together and the results can be less then productive. Any time I have had less then stellar results working with resin it has required sanding down to the primer and restarting the process.
The best results I have ever had with resin is to first paint it with a urethane primer sealer that way the primer and paint don't react with the resin. I use either HoK KS Ko-Seal Primer/Sealer or PPG Urethane Primer/Sealer. The advantage of using a urethane primer/sealer is that it doesn't react to the underlying sub-strait or the paint that you apply on top of it. Both the HoK and PPG Primer/Sealer are very light gray and have very little impact on your top coat color.
My one word advice would be make sure to clean your equipment after you use it to spray Urethane primer/sealer as it is a catalyzed paint and will harden in about 30 minutes if not cleaned. I use hardware store brand lacquer thinner to clean my airbrush and have never had a problem.
Hope to see you Saturday at Billetproof.
Fletch
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Post by zbuckster on Jun 21, 2010 11:16:09 GMT -8
Thanks for the fast reply Fletch. I bought the HOK paint on line. Dave Hessler, an airbrush artist and fellow modeler, uses their paint all the time with no problem. He lives in Florida and like you has a vendor close at hand. I had 6 cans of this primer and had used 3 of them. I had put Dulpi-color, Testor's and Krylon paint over it with no problem. No more of that. LOL I will go looking for a good primer that I can get locally. So what have I done about the problem? Well taking the advice of a guy I know and trust I mixed up a solution of 50/50 Lacquer Thinner and Rubbing Alcohol and using a soft rag (old Tshirt). You dip the cloth into the solution and then wring it out so that is is damp but not wet (dripping). Then you start rubbing. Nervous as a new bride I decided to give it a try. Here is what I have after 3 hours. I was warned that this only works with yellow resin. If you try it on white resin it will melt. It is a slow process but doesn't seem to have any bad effect on the resin. So about 3 or 4 more hours I will have the top done and then start on the inside. Once again thanks for the input. See you Saturday.
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Post by bigkydd on Jul 3, 2010 8:13:48 GMT -8
Hi Buck, dont ya just hate those lil paint issues. they always seem to come on those really great projects. I got lots of projects put aside till i work out some of the same issues. It was great meeting you at Billetproof this year and I am following this project and enjoying the progress. You have a talent and it shows. NICE JOB!!
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Post by zbuckster on Jul 3, 2010 16:01:19 GMT -8
Hey everyone I am back. I really enjoyed the Billetproof. SABA did a great job on the model show. All the builders that entered did the rest. Man there were some nice builds there. I did get to meet several of you and almost have it straight in my head who is who. My memory is about as long as my Big Toe so don't be offended if you have to introduce yourself a couple more times before I get it right. Thanks to everyone for the quick replies and help on the paint problem. It is now history. It took a little over 9 hours to strip the body. Dulpi-color Self Etching Primer took care of the problem, So after reprimering, sanding, base gold coat and candy it looked like this. This is right out of the paint booth. I spent sometime looking through my decal tin and found some cool stuff. I found this decal set. In the time I knew Bob Paeth he told me the story about this decal sheet about 6 times (maybe more). I found it in so model parts I bought at a swap meet some 4 or 5 years ago. When I saw it I knew it was the decal sheet Bob was talking about. I decided this was the car to put them on. I know who Paeth and Keeler are. Not sure about Jones and Winsolw. Bob told me but I can't remember. Just guys he worked with. So I put it on. Also found a Road sign(?) looking decal that said "Ted's Creamy Root Beer". Man I thought this will work on the rear wing. I think a 1949 Mercury should have a little pin striping on it. So I found 2 1/2 decal sheets that had the same striping on them and added it around the Root Beer and the back around the Chute recess. Since the front of the car was bare I added one to the top of the scoop. I didn't want a cluttered look so BMFed the side molding and the hood emblem and called it good. Here is the finished car with no clear coat. Last question was how would it look on the chassis. Here are 2 photos to answer that. These were taken before the decal work but will give you an idea. So that's were we are now. I will clear the body and then let it set while I finish the chassis. I am back on track now so will update in about a week. Thanks for looking in. All comments and questions are welcome.
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davem
Junior Member
Posts: 91
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Post by davem on Jul 3, 2010 23:43:47 GMT -8
That Looks great, the color and finish are outstanding.
Dave
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Post by Fletch on Jul 4, 2010 16:20:09 GMT -8
Buck, this is a great save, it would have been real easy to have tossed this one aside and move on to another project. Can't wait for this one to be finished.
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Post by brizio on Jul 5, 2010 5:42:34 GMT -8
This color fit the car perfect! Very very nice job!!!
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Post by zbuckster on Jul 6, 2010 7:22:41 GMT -8
Thanks everyone. I do agree the color is outstanding on this one. The color changes as the light does. Fletch, I did think of giving up when the paint deal came down, but then tought "just fix it". Now that the sun has come out in Aberdeen my build time is shorter. Yesterday I painted the patio fence. Today is yard work. Oh well gives the clear coat a chance to cure before I sand and polish it. Working on the roll cage and interior also. Talk with ya soon.
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Post by zbuckster on Jul 11, 2010 14:27:43 GMT -8
OK I am back for another update. Thanks for all the comments and input. This last week I didn't get as much done as I wanted to. I wanted to be done with the build for Good Guys July 23-25TH but don't know if I will make it. It's been great weather here so I been working on the "Honey Dew List".Only 2 projects left on the list so I might make it. If not I will do a rain dance. Since the last update I got the body cleared, sanded,polished and waxed. Using the old "Reflection of a Silver Dollar" trick here is how that turned out. Needless to say I am very happy with the way it turned out. After trying several grilles I have it down to 2. I am leaning toward the egg crate effect of the strainer mesh. I don't really know yet which I will choose. Also started working on the roll cage. Since the dash board was moved down and back, the cage doesn't fit right in the front. Here is where I am at on it. So in a perfect world I would have the roll cage and interior done for next week. The it would be down to wiring and plumbing. We'll see how it goes. Thanks for looking in. All questions and comments are welcome.
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