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Post by Fletch on Aug 8, 2010 11:24:43 GMT -8
Stopped by the LHS yesterday and picked up another Revell '32 Ford 5 Window Coupe. I was somewhat surprised when I opened the box and pulled out the body. I know that Revell's quality control can be a bit iffy from time to time but I was surprised that a body with the rear window opening that looks like this managed to get by the QC process. If I were planning on building this stock height I would most likely taken it back or contacted Revell for a replacement. But, with the upcoming chop it's repairable. The amount to taken out of the roof is aprox 4 scale inches or around .160". The tape is .125" with the saw cut the amount removed is around .155" by the time the cuts are leveled the chop should be right around the 4 scale inches we need to remove. Hopefully when all is said and done we'll have something that reasonably resembles the drawing. Hosted on FotkiTime to get the roof leveled and reattached and get to working on the chassis. Stay Tuned.
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Post by Fletch on Aug 8, 2010 15:50:37 GMT -8
Final bit of work on the chop for this evening, need to let the cement cure and head to tonight's meeting. A chop this deep requires the roof to be split, on a 3 Window it's a single split but a 5 Window or Sedan requires the roof to be split at the doors as well as the quarter windows. You wouldn't think that a difference of .010 from one side of the body to the other would make all that much difference. In 1:1 it wouldn't be an issue but in scale it's very noticeable. So, the drivers side required a couple of .010 shims to bring the roof level from side to side. One of the nice things about this coupe is that the roof insert has been filled, in scale it allows us the not be overlay concerned with the insert lines. Hosted on FotkiOnce the splits are filled with scrap Evergreen Styrene and the insert lines are sanded off the roof will be given a coat of styrene cement to "kill" the memory of the lines so they don't show up once we get to painting. The same thing will happen with the mold lines on the back of the greenhouse as they are notorious for showing up at the least opportune times.
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Post by brizio on Aug 10, 2010 8:03:03 GMT -8
Cool project! I like the color in the drawing!!! Looking forward!
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Post by Fletch on Aug 10, 2010 20:40:22 GMT -8
Got the gaps in the roof filled with round Evergreen styrene stock. The trick is to get the gaps filled with as much styrene as possible to avoid using any type of putty filler. Hosted on FotkiBy using the round stock it allows you to build it up to the point it is slightly above the surround roof area. Then if putty is required the sides of the gap will give the putty an area to adhere to. On to working on the chassis.
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davem
Junior Member
Posts: 91
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Post by davem on Aug 10, 2010 21:46:17 GMT -8
its looking good Dave, and i like how your giving a little How-To as your going.
Dave
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Post by garydavis on Aug 14, 2010 14:18:50 GMT -8
That is looking cool Dave!! Are you going with the same color scheme as the pic? Watching this build makes me want to do one...Keep it up and I'll be turning right more than Left.....well...maybe not! LOL
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Post by Fletch on Aug 14, 2010 20:04:41 GMT -8
That is looking cool Dave!! Are you going with the same color scheme as the pic? Watching this build makes me want to do one...Keep it up and I'll be turning right more than Left.....well...maybe not! LOL Gary, I found a "gold" finger nail polish that is pretty close to this color, it's a matte color which will fit the build even closer. The Pegasus wheels that I thought would work are questionable. I think the Kelsey-Hayes wheels in the Monogram '30 Woody are an option but may be to wide, but can be reworked to the proper width. Replica and Miniatures of Maryland has a set of Photo-etched and resin wires that are amazing but at $49.95 for a set of 4 they are a bit cost prohibitive.
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Post by Fletch on Aug 14, 2010 20:05:07 GMT -8
Seeing how it was quickly approaching 95 today, it was a good day to stay inside in the A/C and get some building done. The filler pieces in the roof have had enough time to cure and get sanded level. Once sanded to the level of the roof the 'Liquid Styrene' filler was applied. It's a long way from pretty at this point, but that won't last for long. The mess that was the rear window has been trimmed out. Once the 'glass' has been installed I'll go back with the 'Live Rubber' and make the window molding. Live Rubber is used to make legs on fishing flies, it comes in 3 different sizes and a wide variety of colors. A tutorial on the use of 'Live Rubber' for window molding will be posted when we get to that point in the build. One of the things that makes this Coupe a bit different is that the chassis is bobbed on both ends. The front frame horns were removed and the ends filed flush with the front cross-member. The front cross-member will need to be narrowed so the frame rails will fit behind the outer edges of the radiator surround. The rear of the chassis requires the removal of the gas tank, the frame horns shortened and the angle of the frame rails adjusted to match the new angle of the inner fender wells. The rear of the inner fender well needs to be trimmed so the rear is level. The area above the black line is removed and sanded level. The frame with the fuel tank removed, the frame rail is still in the "Kit" stock position and length. The frame rail after being shortened and adjusted to fit flush with the inner fender well. Hosted on FotkiWell, kids that's about it for the day, more to come after the Liquid Styrene has cured.
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Post by zbuckster on Aug 15, 2010 8:38:08 GMT -8
Looks good Dave. Have you given any thought as to what engine you will put in it?
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Post by Fletch on Aug 15, 2010 15:03:12 GMT -8
Looks good Dave. Have you given any thought as to what engine you will put in it? Buck, based on the spacing of the exhaust ports of the headers limits the choices to a Ford or an early Chrysler Hemi. The kit 5.0 Liter is the obvious choice, but the 242 Hemi from the latest issue of the Ala Kart would be a good choice as well. If I use the 5.0 Liter from the kit I'd like to find or modify a tri-power manifold to be different from all the other Revell '32 Fords that have been built over the past 15 years. Earlier today we had the SABA picnic, the idea was to bring along a couple of projects to put on the table. I took the Coupe and a '36 Coupe. Of course you can't take a project in lots of pieces so this is what the '32 Coupe looks like taped together with the Kelsey-Hayes wheels from the Monogram '30 Woody. The rear tires are from the Revell '32 Roadster. Hosted on FotkiThe front cross-member needs to be narrowed so the frame rails sit behind the radiator surround. Stay tuned, as that's next on the agenda.
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Post by zbuckster on Aug 17, 2010 14:08:29 GMT -8
Man I love it. When I first saw the picture of the car I thought it was a flathead with 3 exhaust ports. But after studying it for a bit I saw it had 4.
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Post by Fletch on Aug 17, 2010 17:40:45 GMT -8
Man I love it. When I first saw the picture of the car I thought it was a flathead with 3 exhaust ports. But after studying it for a bit I saw it had 4. Believe me Buck it would be a lot easier to drop a flattie in the Coupe then trying to find a multi-carb intake for the small block Ford that is in the kit. Think I'm either going to have to raid an early Mustang or Cobra in order to get something other then a single quad intake. We may end up going with the 242 Hemi from the Ala Kart as it has a lot of options for intakes.
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joncarr
New Member
1959 Ford F-100
Posts: 23
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Post by joncarr on Aug 18, 2010 20:00:22 GMT -8
Looks to be a very cool coupe. Would the manifold from the "Mysterion" work or be modified to work?
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Post by Fletch on Aug 18, 2010 20:33:40 GMT -8
Looks to be a very cool coupe. Would the manifold from the "Mysterion" work or be modified to work? Jon, it could work with some modification. The engines in the Mysterion are either "Y" block 292/312 or of the 390 variety, without the kit in front of me I don't remember which. The center section of the manifold could possibly be adapted to work on the kit 5.0 SBF engine.
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joncarr
New Member
1959 Ford F-100
Posts: 23
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Post by joncarr on Aug 18, 2010 21:33:13 GMT -8
Oh Ok,I think it is the 390...I have one that the box is autographed by Ed roth himself....if it wasn't autographed I would give you one of the manifolds...But I will keep my eye out.
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