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Post by Fletch on Mar 5, 2010 23:13:52 GMT -8
Looks great!!! Where they sell HOK paint around here? FaBrizio, I buy the HoK paints from a place called Rainbow Finishes in Oregon City, here is the contact information for them: Rainbow Finishes 410 Molalla Ave Oregon City, OR 97045 503-655-2531 They also have a location in Hillsboro and here is their contact info: Rainbow Finishes 3075 Southwest 234th Avenue Hillsboro (503) 640-2004 The Oregon City store carries HoK in amounts as small as 4oz up to gallons. The 4oz bottles are $14.50. Most HoK paints dry flat and require a gloss coat, they can not be sanded out but the clear coat can be. Their recommendation is to use a 3 step process starting with a Ground Coat (Primer), Base Coat (Color), then a Clear Coat. HoK has a couple of different types of Clear coat one is an Intercoat Clear designed to be used for multi-layered finishes as they don't recommend taping directly to the flat finish of the straight HoK color. Even though the Intercoat clear is not recommended as the final clear coat for our purposes it work fine. The coverage of this stuff is fantastic, for the pieces that I painted with the Blue Blood Red I used less then 1/10th of an ounce. I am quickly becoming a fan of HoK. Give it a shot I seriously doubt that you'll be disappointed.
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Post by brizio on Mar 6, 2010 7:42:25 GMT -8
Thank you for the delicious info Dave! Sorry for the O/T...
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Post by Fletch on Mar 6, 2010 16:48:28 GMT -8
Well after much tossing and turning The body went back to the paint booth this morning for a makeover. The Tamiya Matte Black became the ground coat for the new base coat of HoK Galaxy Grey. Details such as the corrected body line are now visible, and the main body color doesn't suck the life out of all the other colors. The color is just as it came out of the airbrush no clear coat has been added yet, I plan to gloss clear coat the Dashboard and wheels, not sure about the body at this point. What do you think of the new color? Thumbs up or Thumbs down? I'd like to hear your thoughts on the change. A quick commentary on House of Kolor Paints, if you haven't tried HoK paints you're doing yourself a disservice. This paint goes on thin, coverage is fantastic and the price by comparison to that of Testors or Tamiya, HoK wins hands down. The 4oz Airbrush Bottles retail for $19, the jobber I buy from here in Portland gives a discount to any and every customer, the 4oz bottle runs me $14.50. The Airbrush Bottles come ready to use, just dump it into your color cup and fire up the compressor. Back to the build. Got a couple more tweeks to do with the frame it should be in paint tomorrow afternoon at the latest. The initial pieces were cut for the floor pans using K&S .005 Aluminum sheet (this is the stuff that comes in rolls) they are ok but I think I'll give it another shot and pick the 2 best for the final assembly. Hosted on FotkiThat's it for today, what do you think, your comments and critiques are always welcome.
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Post by brizio on Mar 7, 2010 6:58:10 GMT -8
This color looks great!!! Nice choice!
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Post by Fletch on Mar 10, 2010 1:47:29 GMT -8
Made some more progress on the Shadowbox Coupe, it seems things like the daily driver breaking down and needing repaired took precedence over model building. Anyway the 1:1 is back on the road and I get to go back and play at the bench. Since we last visited the frame has gotten a couple of coats of Krylon Semi-Flat Black (about the only color from Krylon worth using anymore). Tire and wheel assemblies are now epoxied to the brake drums. The interior pans are in place, they need a final trim so the trans and drive shaft tunnels can be built. Beings there is so much of this coupe that we don't know about from the single photo a bit of artistic license is coming into play. I have no idea how the steering linkage attaches to the steering column then out to the steering arm. The solution I came up with is to make it cowl steering, using a bit of brass rod, the bell arm from the '31 Sedan I was able to fashion the linkage to the cowl and still have it functional. I'll use brass rod and tubing to build the steering arm during final assembly. The other bit of artistic license that I chose to take is with the Grille and Surround. Instead of converting the '37 Pickup grille and shell to work with an AMT '34 Ford grille I've chosen to shorten the '37 Grille and Surround and do the necessary detail painting to make it work for the build. Hosted on FotkiThe valve covers are awaiting a coat of AlcladII chrome then they will go on the heads the we'll get to the wiring. The bicycle fenders are being fashioned out of the spare tire cover from the '37 Pickup, both of them and the grille surround should be ready for paint later today or Thursday morning. That's it for now, the finish line is in sight.
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Post by Fletch on Mar 19, 2010 23:25:18 GMT -8
Spent the major part of the day getting the headers for the Coupe together. It was one of those should have been simple tasks that took hours. I knew in my minds eye what I wanted to accomplish but just couldn't quite figure it out. It also helped that every time I attempted to bend the K&S or Evergreen tubing it either broke at the bend or collapsed. Finally, after exhausting the supply of aluminum and styrene tubing I went searching and found a piece of sprue that was the right diameter, heated it up to the bend that I wanted, cooled it off in cold water, a couple of cuts and sanding later and the header tips were finished. The headers are a mix of parts from different kits with the exhaust flanges coming from the Revell '32 5 Window Coupe. The headers themselves from the AMT Phantom Vicky, and header flanges from Detail Master. Hosted on FotkiPerfect they are not, but they will serve the purpose, they'll get a trip through the paint booth for some Model Masters Metalizer and be ready for final assembly. More to come soon, the PNW Model Fest is 1 week away.
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Post by brizio on Mar 20, 2010 5:33:14 GMT -8
Very nice job on the headers!
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Post by Fletch on Mar 21, 2010 23:30:12 GMT -8
The front fenders are completed and along with the grille surround are now painted, they will get clear coated in the morning and then we're pretty much at time to get this puppy assembled. The bicycle fenders were cut from the spare tire cover from the Revell '37 Ford Panel, they are aprox 1/3 of the cover with the center trimmed out to the proper size and shape. They will be mounted to the brake backing plates with Detail Associates (Model RR) flat brass wire. Hosted on FotkiThere are a couple of things that time permitting might get changed. The ALCLAD on the valve covers just is not what I envisioned it to be, so there is a very good chance they will repainted with Testors Stainless Steel Buffing Metalizer to at least give a bit of a shine to them. Also, the other thing that will most likely get addressed is the interior floor boards. The .005 K&S Aluminum works great for the transmission and drive shaft tunnel but is a bit to thin for the actual floor boards. Floating around the work shop I have a couple of sheets of .010 Birch veneer that should work quite nicely for the floor boards in the couple. On to final assembly, starting in the morning. PNW Model Car Fest is just 5 Days away!
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davem
Junior Member
Posts: 91
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Post by davem on Mar 22, 2010 10:36:17 GMT -8
Its looking great Dave ! Can't wait to see it finished tgis weekend.
Dave
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Post by brizio on Mar 24, 2010 19:44:21 GMT -8
Totally Cool work Fletch!!! I'm impatient to see it done!
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Post by Fletch on Mar 26, 2010 1:41:09 GMT -8
The final assembly is underway. The couple of things that I wasn't real happy with, the floor boards and the valve cover paint have been addressed and changed. The floor boards are now 1/64" birch plywood, I feel it is a bit more period correct. The sheet aluminum for the transmission and drive shaft tunnel are still in place. The forward piece of the trans tunnel still needs shaped other wise that portion of the build is complete. The engine wiring is completed and the 6X2 manifold is in place ready to be drilled for the carbs to be added. This will end up being the longest part of the final assembly what with bending and fitting the fuel lines to the carbs, but with the use of anodized wire it will be worth the effort. I removed the same amount from the bottom of the seat as the door panels which in reality is a bit to much, so the seat will get a couple of riser blocks underneath to bring it back up about .060. The edges in the center of the seat that was cut for clearance for the drive shaft tunnel need to be dressed up with a file then it to should be finished. Which leaves the dashboard and petals as the parts of the interior to be completed. Went with the wife to the fabric store and found a faux leather cloth that is extra thin, it cuts nicely with a standard paper cutter. Rolled it up to represent the roof insert rolled back and strapped down for a day out cruising. I may go back and cover the seat and interior panels with this 'leather', not 100% sure on that just yet. I tried several different taillight treatments on the coupe including the RMoM '41 Studebaker, Revell's round taillights from the '32 Ford 5 Window coupe and didn't like how they sat or looked. I grabbed the misc taillight box and found these, they are from the Ala-Kart, they're a little bit custom and a little bit '58 Biscayne. Hosted on FotkiThere is where the we are early this Friday morning. The PNW Model Car Fest is about 40 hours away, if I gave up sleeping, eating, drinking and all other normal bodily functions it might get done in time. But, with the amount of time and effort invested in the build, waiting and using the next 2 weeks to finish before the next show sound a lot more sane. Stay tuned, and as always your comments and suggestions are welcomed. Peace
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Post by brizio on Mar 29, 2010 8:04:12 GMT -8
Saw it Saturday, and it is coming out totally cool!!!! I always forgot to ask you if you need some aircraft seat, like the one I used on the Willys. Let me know, I can build two and bring a the next meeting.
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Post by Fletch on Apr 13, 2010 20:58:50 GMT -8
Now that the Jairus Watson Artwork Challenge is well underway I can get back to finishing the Shadowbox Coupe. The intake manifold was in place and ready for the carbs when the topic was last updated. The headers were complete as well and waiting to be attached to the heads. A fuel distribution was needed for the 6 carbs that will top the manifold. A 3/8" piece of .047 Evergreen round stock was used with 6 holes across the top and 1 in the end. The carbs were center drilled to allow .028 brass wire to be inserted to keep them from getting knocked off the manifold. Each carb was drilled to accept a piece of .015 (26 gauge) plastic coated bead wire to represent the fuel line. The carbd were painted ACLAD II Gold Titanium. The scavenger scoops for the carbs were painted using ALCLAD II Chrome over their Black Base. I like so many have had marginal success with ALCLAD's Chrome until this time. I used their Gloss Black Base (AC305) and must admit that a reasonable "Chrome" finish can be achieved using their products together. It's actually starting to feel like this build is on the way to completion. A alternator/generator bracket needs to be built and the fender braces need to be put in place. The Headlight brackets are bent and in place. Parts by Parks King Bee head lights will be added once the brackets are painted. The dashboard will have the pedals suspended from it they should be in place tomorrow or Thursday. The last piece of assembly will be the link from the cowl steering eccentric to the drivers side drag link. Hosted on FotkiHopefully the next entry will be in the Under the Glass section. Thank you for following along and your words of encouragement and suggestions. Dave aka 'Fletch'
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davem
Junior Member
Posts: 91
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Post by davem on Apr 15, 2010 17:44:06 GMT -8
It's looking great Dave, and almost done.......................
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Post by brizio on Apr 15, 2010 19:46:13 GMT -8
Lovely!!! I don't see the time to look at it a the Portland Roadster Show!!! Great Job Dave!
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